Shoe and the like.



J. KIEWICZ. SHOE AND THE LIKE.

APPLICATION FILED JAN. 17, 19l2.

Patented Aug. 24, 1915.

JOHN KIEWICZ, OF HYDE PARK, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIG-N'OR- TO THE REECE SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, 015' BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE SHOE vAND THE LIKE.

companying drawing.

My invention relates to shoes, and the like, and more particularly to an improved shoe structure, as relating especially to the attachment of the upper or welt, or the associated upper and welt as the case may be, on the one hand, to the sole on the other hand.

In using the word shoe herein, it is to be understood that any foot covering is ineluded, for example, boot, slipper, etc.

While the invention is susceptible of employment in connection with the attachment of theupper to the sole of a turned shoe, its greatest utility and the specific illustrations in this application relate to welt shoes, the invention being employed in connection with attaching the welt and upper, or either of them, to the inner sole prior to the step of attaching the outsole.

With the preceding comments in mind, the present invention may be said to have for an object to improve the construction of shoes by simplifying and cheapening the attachment ofthe Welt or upper, or both, to

,the sole, especially by the aid of an intermediate element, namely an attached marginal strip.

Another object of the present invention is by the manner of construction hereinafter described, to dispense with the need of any fabric or canvas covering beneath the sole and strip and to permit the welt or upper, or both, to be attached directly to the sole and strip without interposition of an additional fabric.

Another object hereof is to make simple and strong the attachment of the marginal strip to the sole so that when stitched 1n place it is held there with rigldity and security; and particularly to accomplish this by providing in a single stitching operation two lines of attachment.

Another object and a very important one, is the avoidance of the projection of stitches on the top side of the sole in the interior of the shoe, thereby not only improving the Specification of Letters Iatent.

Patented Aug. 24, 1915.

Application filed January 17, 1912. Serial No. 671,769.

soles comfort and appearance, but also savmg the stitches from exposure and therefore from wear and breakage. A shoe having an insole with projecting stitches is considered inferior and cheap, and my improvement en tirely obvlates that.

Another object is to enable the insoles of I jects which will appear in the hereinafter following description, my invention consists in the novel shoestructure and portions and combinations thereof illustrated and described.

I will first describe one instance or embodiment of my improvement and will thereafter point out the novel features in the claim.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 represents in transverse cross-section, but

somewhat uncompleted in condition and exaggerated in dimension and form for the purposexof clearness, the construction of a shoe, etc., embodying my invention. Fig. 2

represents a bottom view of the insole and marginal strip attached to each other but detached from the other partsof the shoe. Figs. 3 and 4 show in enlarged perspective the preferred manner of attachment of the marginal strip to the insole. Figs. 5 and 6 illustrate steps in the process of construction, namely in relation to the attachment of the marginal strip to the insole; the succeeding steps, namely the attachment of the upper, welt and outsole being sufiiciently illustrated in Fig. 1 or understood in the art.

Similar numerals of reference designate corresponding parts in the several figures of the drawings.

My improvement may be said to consist of a shoe embodying a sole element having a strip element secured along its margin by stitches which extend through the material of both said elements in a direction substantially parallel with the face of the sole;

Referring first to Fig. 1, the following main elements or constituents of a shoe are shown. First is the sole element 1 to which my improvement pertains, it being in this instance an insole; secondly, the strip element 2 secured around the margin of the sole in a peculiar manner to be more fully described hereinafter. A third element 9 which may comprise the associated upper 10 and welt 11, or in some cases one of them without the other, is shown as connected to the sole element 1 by the aid of or through the means of the strip element 2. In addition an outsole 13 is shown in its approximate location, but for clearness its attachment to the other parts is omitted and for the same reason the filling between the outsole and the insole is omitted, these and other well known constituent elements of a shoe being understood.

Referring to the sole element 1 or insole, that will be of usual make-up excepting that by reason of the present invention it is enabled to be made from lighter and less eX- pensive material.

The strip element or marginal strip may be made of ordinary cord for example or other desired material, and when attached in place as shown it will be understood to constitute a sort of lip or feather projecting from the lower surface of the insole for the purposes hereof. When the strip is a cord it may be formed either by braiding, weaving or twisting. Otherwise it may consist of a strip of leather or any other material capable of being attached in the manner herein described. As shown in Fig. 2 the strip or cord 2 is not carried entirely around the insole but terminates where the heel begins, for reasons well understood.

As beforestated the third element 9 or that which is to be secured to the insole by the aid of the strip 2,-ma-y in some cases consist of the upperalone, for example in turned shoes, or might in some'cases consist of the welt alone, but usually would the strip 2 has mainly been provided.

Neither the upper 10 nor the welt 11 is required to possess any peculiar characteris tics and any desired forms thereof may be employed, the welt of course being of sufficient width to enable it to be stitched to the outsole by a line of stitches exterior to the upper.

I will now describe more in detail, first I the manner of stitching or attaching the strip 2 to the insole 1 in accordance with my-invention, second the manner ofstitch ing or attaching the third element 9'to the combined'elements 1 and 2, and will finally set forth more in detail the resulting struc ture and its advantages. I

The strip 2 is attached to the insole 1 by stitches 3 extending through the strip in a direction substantially parallel with the face of the insole 1. and stitches 4 which extend transversely through the insole in substantially the same direction, although slightly curved so that the stitches may -enter and leave the body of the insole from the same face or surface 6 thereof, thereby leaving the opposite surface free of stitches. As shown the stitches 3, 1 are produced from a single thread 7 passing alternately through the material of the insole and the strip, and a lock stitch is produced therefrom by a second or shuttle thread 8 passed through the respective loops 3 and 4. A lock stitch thus produced is preferable but not essential to my invention.

The distance between the points where each stitch 4: enters and emerges from the sole' element 1 is seen to be approximately the same as the diameter of the cord. From this it results that the stitches even in their exposed portions are practically out of sight. It also follows that the strip 2 is held snugly and firmly to the insole because drawn toward it along two opposite lines of attaching points; so that wabbling or displacement of the strip is practically impossible.

IVhen the stitching 3, 4 is of the lock stitch type, the interlocking points may by well known methods be drawn into the body of the strip and insole respectively if desired, although the interlocking points are shown as located at the respective sur-- faces of the elements for clearness of illustration.

As it may not be clear how the strip and insole are to be mutually attached in the manner described, I will now set forth one method that may be employed therefor, and the method about to be set forth may be carried out by hand or with appliances,.and when with appliances they may be hand or machine operated. I will describe appliances which may be employed either for hand or machine operation for effecting the result set forth. In the appliances illustrated in Figs. 5 and 6, a straight needle may be employed moving in a straight path substantially parallel to the sole element 1, it being understood that when a lock stitch is to be produced there will be cooperating mechanism or means for interlocking a shut- 130 tle thread with each loop produced by the needle. A stationary member 22, which may be the bed plate of a sewing machine, is adapted to have the work, namely the sole element 1, supported thereon during the stitching. The member 22 is shown provided with athroat plate 19 having a cord receiving groove 20. A needle 21 is adapted to perform the stitching by reciprocating .beneath the member or plate 22, in a plane parallel thereto and transversely to the groove 20 in the throat plate 19. The throat plate is alsov shown vertically slotted and provided with a feed block 23 adapted to be moved upwardly and downwardly in such slot, the feed block also having feed teeth or projections on its upper surface and being adapted to move horizontally for effecting forward feed movements of the cord or strip. Located above the work and op osite to the plate 22 is shown a foot 24 whlch may be analogous to the usual presser foot, it serving to bear upon the work to'clamp it in place during stitching. Said foot 24 is also shown vertically slotted for the recep tion of a flexing or bending member 25 which inturn is adapted to be given vertical movements through the slot in foot 24.

When the bender 25 is elevated as in Fig. 5, the insole 1 lies flat between the plate 12 and foot 24 with the cord occupying the cord receiving groove in the throat plate and the needle directly opposite the cord so that on being moved forwardly it will penetrate the same. Fig. 5 shows all the parts in the positions described. When the bender 25 is depressed it bends or curves the material of the sole 1 into the. groove 20, as shown in Fig. 6, in such way that the strip or cord 2 is thrust out of the needles path and the bent portion ofthe sole element 1 is brought directly opposite the apertures 26 and therefore into the path of the needle 21. The insole, however, will be flexed or curved only sufliciently for the needle to slightly enter without piercing through'the insole, in other words so that when straightened the stitch 4 formed in the insole will be of the nature and extent indicated in Figs. 1, 3 and 4. 4

To carry out the stitching operations with the appliances described the feed block 23 will preferably be operated either by hand ormechanism to first assume the position of Fig. 5, where it holds the strip 2 upward in place against the insole and opposite the needle, remaining in this position while the stitch 3 is taken through the strip 2, then feeds the work forward the proper betweenstitch distance, and subsequently drops or yields into the position shown in Fig. 6, while the bender is bending the insole into position to receive the next thrust of the needle forming the stitch 4. The operation of the bender 25 whether by hand or mechanism will be a mere alternation or reciprocation, first bending the insole and then allowing it to straighten. The operation of the needle 21 will be to alternately pierce and form loops through the strip and the insole 1 respectively, and when a lock stitch ample of my invention, of the associated upper and welt, to the insole 1 and strip 2.

The particular method of machine for forming the stitches does not per se constitute a part of my invention and any mode of stitching or machine may be employed. The stitches, however, must pass through the third element 9 and become interlocked with the other two elements or one of the elements or the stitches connecting them. A curved needle, for example, might be employed for 4 carrying the stitching'thread through the welt and upper and into position to interlock as setforth, and while it is not essential I prefer that the stitches 12 so formed may be of the chain-stitch variety, the loop of each stitch passing over the bights of the succeeding stitch so that no shuttle is necessary and merely a single thread is employed. Fig. 1 illustrates the sole. element 1 with the marginal strip element 2 connected thereto, and a third element comprising upper and welt stitched by stitches 12 passing through both welt and upper and interlocking with strip 2 or with the stitches connecting the strip to the sole 1. The stitches 12, moreover, are shown as passing practically between the sole and strip elements although the stitches might be located slightly to one side of this position. The stitches 12 moreover are indicated as chain stitches interlocking with portions of the thread 8 which takes partsin the attachment of the strip element to the sole element. It will be understood that in the process of attachingthe welt and upper the stitches will be drawn tight, in fact more so than indicated in the figure, so that the upper and welt will be snugly pulled into the corner or crease, whereby the parts are firmly and permanently united in advance of the attachment of the outsole 13 and the steps leading up thereto.

It will be noticed that there is no canvas or other covering beneath and inclosing the sole and stripv elements so as to be interposed between them and the third element 9. In fact my improvement enables an extra interposed element or cover to be dispensed with and the associated upper and welt to be attached in contact with the adjacent faces of the sole and strip elements. They are shown in fact in Fig. l in immediate and direct contact. This simplification is enabled by reason of the superior arrangement and combination of the three elements including the respective mode of attachment between the sole and strip elements on the one hand, and between the thiri element and the first two on the other han The stitches 12 may be relatively coarser than the stitches connecting elements 1 and 2 according to the operators judgment, and the relative weights of the respective stitching threads will likewise be chosen so as to assure an advantageous interlocking of the second stitching with the first.

It will be seen that I have disclosed as an article of manufacture a novel shoe, which comprises the following recited elements in combination: A flat-bodied sole element 5. A strip of material 2, separate from the sole element but arranged and locatedalong the margin of thelower face thereof, such strip being secured permanently and firmly to the sole by aseries of stitches which extend through the material of both strip and sole element in a direction substantially parallel. with the face of the sole thus affording two lines of attaching strands and obviating exposure of stitches at the upper side of the sole. There is a third element 9, which includes the shoe upper 10, and in the illustrated embodiment it is shown as including also the welt 11; this third element being located directly against the sole element and strip, as shown, and without any intermediate interposed cover. This third element 9 is secured to the sole element by means of a line of stitches which are so arranged that they interlock with the stitches which secure the strip to the sole element but without substantially entering the material of the strip.

I have thus by the new combination and arrangement of elements described, e11 abled the attainment of all of the objects and advantages hereinabove recited. It can also be pointed out that in the case of a turned shoe the present invention is of particularly great advantage as savlng the exposure beneath the sole of the connecting stitches where they would quickly wear and become destroyed. The double stitch line or double line of attachment between the sole element and strip element is of importance and it is believed that a mere single line of stitches would leave the strip so insecure as to require the further provision of an interposed cover between the sole and strip on the one hand, and the welt or upper on the other hand.

Other advantages not hereinabove recited will be apparent to those skilled in the art.

Having now illustrated the principles of my improvement by means of one embodiment thereof, it should be stated that to those skilled in the art it will be obvious and simple toapply the improvement in vari ous forms or embodiments or with modifications which do not change the principles; so that I do not desire to be limited to any of the mere details herein described excepting as set forth in the appended claim.

hat I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

As an article of manufacture a shoe or analogous article comprising in combination, a fiat-bodied sole element; a strip of material separate from said sole element arranged and located along 'the margin of the lower face thereof, said strip being secured firmly and permanently to the sole element by a series of stitches which extend through the material of both strip and sole element in a direction substantially parallel with the sole elements face, thus affording two lines of attaching strands and obviating exposure of stitches at the upper side of the sole element; and a third element including the shoe upper located directly against the sole element and strip without any intermediate interposed cover, said third element being secured to such sole element by means of a line of stitches which interlock with said stitches securing said strip to said sole element, without substantially entering the material of the strip.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature in presence of two witnesses.

JOHN KIEVVICZ. Witnesses:

FREDERICK N. DAvisoN, THOMAS J. CARTY. 

